Journals, стр. 11
Our course had been west-southwest thirty miles and we proceeded with great caution, as we continually expected to approach some great rapid or fall. This was such a prevalent idea, that all of us were occasionally persuaded that we heard those sounds which betokened a fall of water. Our course changed to west by north, along the mountains, twelve miles, north by west, twenty-one miles, and at eight o’clock in the evening, we went on shore for the night, on the north side of the river. We saw several encampments of the natives, some of which had been erected in the present spring, and others at some former period. The hunters killed only one swan and a beaver; the latter was the first of its kind which we had seen in this river. The Indians complained of the perseverance with which we pushed forward, and that they were not accustomed to such severe fatigue as it occasioned.
.—The rain was continual through the night, and did not subside till seven this morning, when we embarked and steered north-northwest for twelve miles, the river being enclosed by high mountains on either side. We had a strong headwind, and the rain was so violent as to compel us to land at ten o’ clock. According to my reckoning, since my last observation, we had run two hundred and seventeen miles west, and forty-four miles north. At a quarter past two the rain subsided, and we got again under way, our former course continuing for five miles. Here a river fell in from the north, and in a short time the current became strong and rapid, running with great rapidity among rocky islands, which were the first that we had seen in this river, and indicated our near approach to rapids and falls. Our present course was northwest by north ten miles, northwest three miles, west-northwest twelve miles, and northwest three miles, when we encamped at eight in the evening, at the foot of an high hill, on the north shore, which in some parts rose perpendicular from the river. I immediately ascended it, accompanied by two men and some Indians, and in about an hour and an half, with very hard walking, we gained the summit, when I was very much surprised to find it crowned by an encampment. The Indians informed me, that it is the custom of the people who have no arms to choose these elevated spots for the places of their residence, as they can render them inaccessible to their enemies, particularly the Knisteneaux, of whom they are in continual dread. The prospect from this height was not so extensive as we expected, as it was terminated by a circular range of hills, of the same elevation as that on which we stood. The intervals between the hills were covered with small lakes, which were inhabited by great numbers of swans. We saw no trees but the pine and the birch, which were small in size and few in number.
We were obliged to shorten our stay here, from the swarms of mosquitoes which attacked us on all sides and were, indeed, the only inhabitants of the place. We saw several encampments of the natives in the course of the day, but none of them were of this year’s establishment. Since four in the afternoon the current had been so strong, that it was at length, in an actual ebullition, and produced an hissing noise like a kettle of water in a moderate state of boiling. The weather was now become extremely cold, which was the more sensibly felt, as it had been very sultry sometime before and since we had been in the river.
.—At five in the morning, the wind and weather having undergone no alteration from yesterday, we proceeded northwest by west twenty-two miles, northwest six miles, northwest by north four miles and west-northwest five miles; we then passed the mouth of a small river from the north, and after doubling a point, southwest one mile, we passed the influx of another river from the south. We then continued our course north-northwest, with a mountain ahead, fifteen miles, when the opening of two rivers appeared opposite to each other: we then proceeded west four miles, and northwest thirteen miles. At eight in the evening, we encamped on an island. The current was as strong through the whole of this day as it had been the preceding afternoon; nevertheless, a quantity of ice appeared along the banks of the river. The hunters killed a beaver and a goose, the former of which sunk before they could get to him: beavers, otters, bears, etc., if shot dead at once, remain like a bladder, but if there remains enough of life for them to struggle, they soon fill with water and go to the bottom.
.—The sun set last night at fifty-three minutes past nine, by my watch, and rose at seven minutes before two this morning: we embarked soon after, steering north-northwest, through islands for five miles, and west four miles. The river then increased in breadth, and the current began to slacken in a small degree; after the continuation of our course, we perceived a ridge of high mountains before us, covered with snow. West-southwest ten miles, and at three-quarters past seven o’clock, we saw several smokes on the north shore, which we made every exertion to approach. As we drew nearer, we discovered the natives running about in great apparent confusion; some were making to the woods, and others hurrying to their canoes. Our hunters landed before us, and addressed the few that had not escaped, in the Chipewyan language, which, so great was their confusion and